Cutting this for example will give you an outside left...
this is the result when it's flipped and installed...
and cutting this for will give you a outside right...
...and this is the result for the outside right cut installed.
Crown molding measurements are marked on the bottom edge
...and this is the result of that cut an inside left.
An example of backing for crown.
How do I Cut crown molding in position?
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CL # 769640 General B / HIC
There are two different methods to cut crown molding.
You place the crown upside down on the saw leaning against the fence at the spring angle. You leave the bevel at 90 and set the miter.
You will set the saw at the compound angle ( bevel and the miter ) for that crowns spring angle.
Owner Tutorials Cutting crown in position
It can be a bit confusing since the molding must be placed upside down for your cuts. So envision the saw table as the ceiling, and the fence as representing the wall. Okay, but since the molding is upside down, the angle points in the opposite direction too. That's where you've probably heard carpenters to remind themselves to cut "upside down and backward." Use the mouse over image to the left, to flip the miter saw over.
Cutting crown by hand in a miter box uses the same method...
In Basics you found out about crown molding angles and some of the terms, and in set-up the way to get ready to cut the molding and find the studs so let's actually cut something.
Link to dewalt crown stops at amazon . Check to see If you can get a set of stops for your miter saw
The "Prosite" is the best protrator for in position cutting, it shows the actual miter angle for your saw as well as the corner angle & is heavy duty.
Owner Tutorials - How to install crown moulding
Marking out the job
The first thing I do after I get set up is cut a gauge block for my mark out. You will want to mark where the bottom of the crown sits on the wall, and a line for center of the studs. I used to snap a chalk line, but I found that since the ceilings are off a bit usually and the walls are painted in a lot of jobs... so the marking block really comes in handy, especially at the corners.
Take the rise (always the long side @ a 38/52 spring) and cut a block a 1/16 under that measurement
In this example it's 4 1/2 inches. To the bottom of the flange, that is the bottom of the crown as it sits against the wall.
Which way is the right way for me, you ask?
"In position" is easier to measure & cut. The bottom that you mark for the cuts is always up. You'll need a good protractor to get the corner angles, and crownstops to hold it in position. If if moves slightly out of position you won't gt a perfect cut. Plus you can only cut crown that will fit sitting upright on your saw.
, it's easier to remember and to work with your partner (
crown is a 2 person project
You can make crown stops like this one but be very careful they need to be stable.
Crown held in position on the miter saw with the crown stops
Use a decent tape, this is important... at least a 1" blade.
This is a 1 1/4" blade of the Stanley "Fat Max" series that I use, this one has an 11' standout.
Don't try to do this job with a cheap tape it's not worth the hassle it'll create for you.
Two outsides and the mantel corner they make
Before of a couple of tricky corners...
After notice the self return
If you already have 18v dewalt this unit comes without the batteries
The full kit 2 batteries & charger, 18-Volt 16-Gauge 20-Degree
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Porter-Cable CFFN250N Finish & Brad Nailer Combo Kit
2 guns a 16g finish nailer and an 18g brad. I really like the feel of the brad it's in my toolbox. Plus you get the 135psi pancake compressor, hoses and a bunch of extras. It's an extremely good deal right now too.
Put mouse over image and click to flip saw